By Ferretpass, with huge help by Polymaker for providing the materials I used in this guide.
(And huge help from 3d Print General , AG Cast , Jnyboy , TedyhereMC , CTRL+Pew)
What will you need to get started printing these Nylons?
- Filament dryer, I used this one https://amzn.to/3lxRqd6
- Hardened steel 0.6mm nozzle- https://amzn.to/3Ahsv1T
- Desiccant packets – https://amzn.to/3fv4oVa -I used a big one I found at Walmart any big desiccant packet will work
- Glue stick, I recommend https://amzn.to/3rSErEh
- Glass bed for Ender 3 sized printers https://amzn.to/3ypFDBp
- Steel extruder gears – https://amzn.to/3xpOUrG – if you don’t use steel gears this will happen (as seen in pictures 1 and 2)
- Metal extruder – https://amzn.to/3Chy8Pj – I’ve been using this one, and it’s worked flawlessly this kit comes with upgraded bed springs and blue PTFE tubing.
- Metal hotend – https://amzn.to/3Chyfud – this is 100% needed for printing nylon due to the temps required for this guide.
- Skr Mini Motherboard – https://amzn.to/3lxRnhG – although it’s not 100% needed, it makes editing marlin much easier. In this guide I’m going to go over editing marlin with this motherboard you can use the v2.0 motherboard they make, but I only have a v1.2, and it worked fine.
What print settings will you need?
- You will need a hot nozzle temp of 260c to 300c depending on the material.
- Temperatures for PA12-CF (Polymaker, and I Recommend 260c to 280c) and I used (40c on the build plate) with glue stick on the print bed.
- Temperatures for PA6-GF (Polymaker, and I Recommend a nozzle temp of 280c to 300c) and I used a (bed temp of 40c) with glue stick on the print bed.
- Temperatures for PA6-CF (Polymaker and I Recommend a nozzle temp of 280c to 300c) use a (bed temp of 40c) with glue stuck on the print bed.
- This material in my testing doesn’t need an enclosure, but I recommend printing in a very well-ventilated area (I printed in my bathroom with my toilet covered with a trash bag and the overhead vent turned on)
- This material requires (no cooling fan) to turn off the cooling fan grants the best layer adhesion and best strength.
- I recommend using a Brim with a (Brim distance of 0.2mm and a brim line count of 15)
- For layer heights, I recommend (0.42mm or 0.3mm with the 0.6mm nozzle) Note. In my testing, a 0.4mm nozzle did not work for me. It kept jamming the nozzle.
- These are my support settings for running a 0.42mm layer height; the only difference between 0.42mm and 0.3mm for my settings is the Z Distance. (For 0.42mm layer height run a 0.42mm Z Distance for a 0.3mm layer height run a 0.3mm Z Distance) these support settings I learned from 3D Print General (as seen in pictures 3 and 4)
- Material settings I run all my flow parameters at 100% for these filaments.
How do I edit Marlin and what settings do I change?
I recommend watching this video on YouTube, https://youtu.be/GQlAN88ebNM. Install everything he shows on your computer, and we can start editing the firmware to be able to print these filaments. In Configuration.h hit CTRL+F and Search “HEATER_0_MAXTEMP”. Change Heaters 1 through 7 to “305”. This will raise your hotend’s max temp to 290c. I learned this from TedyhereMC and 3D Print General and this YouTube video https://youtu.be/ZfVN0yX5kJc. Follow how he compiles the firmware and uploads it to his printer.
- Note: Do not change the extruder settings he changed in the video (unless you are running the same extruder setup) all we have to change is the heater max temp. Another
- Note: DO NOT CHANGE THESE SETTINGS IF YOU DON’T HAVE AN ALL-METAL HOTEND! Standard hotends are not designed to operate at these temps, and you risk a 3D Printer Fire. (as seen in picture 5)
Note. I am not responsible for anyone’s bodily harm or property damage.
How do I dry my filament?
I Learned this from AG cast: Put the desiccant packets in the filament dryer with the material and toggle the temp to 55c and let it dry for 24 to 48 hours. Note. make sure you read the instructions with your dryer and set your drying time to 24 hours. With my dryer, you push the minus temp button down until it pulls up the menu where you set the time and you hold down minus temp to confirm your settings. These settings don’t save when you power off the dryer or when you unplug it. (as seen in picture 6)
Note you must print with the filament in the dryer keep a small desiccant packet from the filaments package in the dryer in the middle of the spool (I recommend putting the desiccant packet in your microwave for 2 minutes before printing) Also if you have to use tape with your desiccant packet like I did do not cover up the vent holes. (as seen in picture 7)
PA6-GF print (the print looked great until my extruder gear broke)