this is a competition driven gen3 glock design, for g17, g34, and 17L uppers.
inspired by the platypus/staccatto, but costing 1/10th as much –
featuring a unique integrated compensator, modular design and a high level of customization options
This PDF guide and BOM omits how to assemble a gen3 lower with dd17.2 rails, I have included
IvanTheTrolls dd17.2 guide for that purpose – this only covers the specifics of the Plasticcatto
assembly

## BOM-
you will need a gen 3 LPK and gen5 take-down spring –
extended take-down lever and mag release are recommended

1. x4 m3 35mm long screws and nuts
(if you plan on using a holster, they must be countersunk heads)

2. x2 2 .100 roll pins, or solid pins 1” long (you can upsize this if needed but I wouldn’t exceed
.125)

3. x1 .125 (1/8th) 1.1” roll pin/solid pin, or x2 .5/.375 pins

4. x2 3/8ths tungsten weights, 3” long – the cheapest method for sourcing these would be to go to
your local machine shop and ask to peruse their broken carbide tool bucket (most every shop
has this for recycling purposes, and carbide tools are made with tungsten) be sure to select the
ones with the least amount of flute length as this will be heaviest – alternatively you could order
used ones from ebay easily enough.

5. x1 40mm m3 hex head screw and nut (optional, this is for additional security if using a very
long comp like the 17l, but I have ran the 34 version without it with no issues)

6. SendCutSend reinforcement plate, order in inch UOM at .125 thick – aluminum is not
recommended as we’ve have issues with bowing – brass, steel or titanium is preferred.

-The following is only required if you want to utilize the printed holster and
magholders

7. holster hardware – this specific one is highly recommended, as its cheap and I modeled the
holster/holder sizes directly from them

8. chamfer tool for the SCS plate- scs will not chamfer it themselves due to the thin geometry
but it needs to be to get the countersunk screws flush with the top, which allows it to be holstered.
Using a 100degree chamfer tool and drill press is recommended, but a hand drill is totally doable.

## PRINT ORIENTATION
the most important orientation to follow is the compensator
print the top down (where the scs plate goes) – this takes advantage of layer compression

## FRAME ASSEMBLY
Lets start with the easiest part first – the magwell/backstrap.
After cleaning off the support material and drilling out the holes to fit your pin, simply slide it onto the
rails you see on the grip –
use one of your .099 pins to secure it. If your sure you wont want to swap it later you can also glue it in
place.
Next up – the beavertail
youll need to use adhesive and compression to secure this one, there wasn’t enough room to fit another
pin in there – I recommend jb plastic weld but any will do.
After cleaning off the support material and drilling out the holes to fit your pin, lather the bottom of the
beavertail or the bottom of the slot for it with your adhesive in the areas marked
Insert the beavertail into its slot on the frame, and
then pin the .099 hole while keeping it in place.
Wipe off any excess adhesive and then use
rubberbands or zipties / a vise to secure the lower
portion -let cure overnight

## COMPENSATOR ASSEMBLY
filled nylons are ideal for printing the comp but we have had no failures with pla+
the jb weld blast shield is recommended but we have also had no failures when skipping this step,
so long as you print it in the correct orientation.
start by deburring the support material and drilling out your pin holes and m3 screw holesthen use a 3/8ths drill on the slots for the 3” tungsten weights, in the comp and the frame if you haven’t
already.
Then, use some sandpaper to rough up the interior surface of the comp, where the blast will be.
Mix up some jb weld and use the printed applicator (pictured in purple, found in the MISC folder)
to lay down an even layer.
after you have a nice even coat, wipe off the excess and
use a toothpick to pop air holes through the vent holes in
the comp – otherwise when drilling it will remove large
flakes of the jb weld. let cure for 24 hrs and then sand
down any imperfections. After this, use a .099 ~ .115 drill
to ream out the compensator holes.
Notice the hole beneath the smiley face – this is an
optional reinforcement to keep the compensator rock solid
against the frame – I have not needed it for my g34 but due to
the length you may want it for a 17L
with the slide off the gun, screw the comp on and the put a
dab of superglue on the nut (recessed into the frame) to hold it
in place, without getting the glue on the threads of the screw.
Remove the comp once set in place, then attach your slide and
screw the comp back on

## Scs plate
after deburring the reinforcement plate, ream out the holes for the m3 screws.
Unfortunately scs wont chamfer these themselves , so if your going to use the holster, then break out
your chamfer tool –
a drill press is preferred but a power drill will work – just make the chamfer as even as possible and
close to as deep as you see pictured. The screws don’t need to be completely flush, just close to it to fit
the holster.
After this, it is recommended that you add a small chamfer to the underside of the plate, with a
dremel or etc. This is because the barrel sits ever so slightly inside the comp, and may
bump the plate when it reciprocates, causing jams and malfunctions.
When screwing the plate into the comp, youll need
to wedge the nuts so that they don’t spin freely –
use a small screwdriver, file, toothpick etc.
insert your 3/8th weights into the comp or
the frame, install your slide, and then install the
comp.
use your .125 pin to secure it to the slide,
and your done!

## OPTIC MOUNT FRAMES
If you experience any loss of zero, utilize the pockets on the optic mounts to apply jbweldthis will increase rigidity. If you want it to look clean, apply painters tape and then use an exacto knife
to cut out the shape, before applying jbweld with a credit card.
Apply the jb weld, remove the tape and let cure for 24hrs.
Sand it down flush with the frame, and if you care about looks spray over it with clear coat to give it
and even, dark tone.